Interview with Maude Vogel from Domaine Croix-Duplex in Grandvaux

Lionel: Hello Maude, can you introduce Domaine Croix-Duplex in a few words?

Maude: The estate was founded in 1929 by my grandfather Samuel, a hydraulic engineer by training, who settled in the region and stayed out of passion and love for wine. He started small, buying a piece of land. It began simply like that. My parents took over the estate in the 70s. They expanded it to 26 hectares. I officially took over in 2023, after a few years working alongside my brother. So that's three generations of Vogels growing vines in this little piece of paradise.

Lionel: Wow, 3 generations, that must be quite a legacy. How does it feel to take over from your parents?

I won't hide that there's pressure, because there's been colossal work done before me. But it remains a thrilling adventure. It represents a lot of pride and joy, but also a bit of fear.

We're seeing more and more women taking charge in the vineyards. How do you observe this change?

It's very positive, obviously. Finally, we have the right to freely do what we want to do, both in the vineyard and in the cellar. There's a profound shift in mentality and we're coming from far behind. It was difficult before because mothers stayed home, they mainly had a support role in every sense of the term. Then we had to contribute to the vineyard, because extra hands were needed. We finally proved that we were capable of doing it just as well as men, despite some physically demanding tasks. Me, I've been immersed in this my whole life, I've been doing this since I was little. Again, I'm very proud to take command of the estate, but I remain humble in the face of the work to be done.

There are many estates in the Lavaux vineyards. What makes Domaine de la Croix Duplex different?

I think it's the variety of our range. We're already the only ones to have 10 different Chasselas available for tasting. That's simply enormous! It's an incredible grape variety, and we're lucky to have vines on very distinct terroirs. We have a unique working tool to allow Chasselas to express this diversity. It's a bit the same for Pinot Noir actually. To put it simply, there's something for every palate (laughs). We have an estate located in an exceptional place. And then, you've been able to admire the view we have, it speaks for itself...

Maude, seriously, 10 Chasselas. Is that really necessary?

Yes, I truly believe it's a strength. Our complete range includes 26 wines. When I took over the estate, I told myself I needed to reduce a bit. But I realized they all had their reason to exist. They all have a certain clientele and their success. Chasselas can be drunk on different occasions, whether as an aperitif or at the table, and so we have an answer to every need.

You have vines in Lavaux of course, but also in Bonvillars and in Chablais? What motivated these acquisitions and what do they bring you?

These are opportunities that come up and you seize them when you can. What motivated us was to have even more varieties and possibilities. In Chablais, we have a superb terroir for making reds. In Bonvillars, we only make Pinot for the Oeil de Perdrix.

What do you think of the evolution of Vaud wines in recent years?

Generally speaking, I observe a quality that's constantly evolving and it's magnificent to see. I'm delighted to be part of this generation that seeks to raise the bar with each vintage. That said, there's still a lot of work to do on the marketing and sales side. We still have a poor image. But I think it's an opportunity to do major educational work. It's happening little by little. We see it here, where we're welcoming more and more people to the cellar.

Among the wines you produce, what's your little favorite, the one you enjoy opening every time?

Mmh, it really depends on the occasion, the mood and the context. I choose based on the moment, what inspires me. I'll give you an example. Yesterday, I was with a client to discuss a collaboration on a future project. I opened a Chasselas from Villette, "les Barberonne". I needed something light to open both the mind and the palate.

The vineyard profession is very varied and changes a lot throughout the year. What do you prefer doing day to day?

In the vineyard, what I prefer doing, and I know it's quite rare, is leaf thinning. It's a time of year I love, and you really see the progress, there's a sense of accomplishment. And then on the opposite end, I love welcoming clients on the terrace. It's the culmination of all the work we've done during the year.

How did the harvest go this year?

It was very hot, in every sense of the term. But overall, it went well. These were my first harvests alone, so I put a bit of pressure on myself. There's enormous complexity in managing 26 hectares. I'm super satisfied with the result. The quantity and quality are good, as is the team atmosphere. I'm ready for next year. Can't wait!

Tasters' mission is to give its subscribers a taste for good wine. What advice would you give to a beginner coming for their first tasting at your place?

To try as many wines as possible and do it in the best conditions. I'd say avoid taking too many wines at once, maybe limit yourself to 3. After that, our palate has more difficulty detecting aromas. So yes, take the time to observe your senses, take the freedom to reflect on the differences between grape varieties and terroirs. I see it with my clients who come to the cellar: they can't always put words to the emotions, but it's the exchange that does the rest. And then, you have to test, discover new wines. In tastings, I always try to offer products they don't know.

We selected the Croix Duplex blanc, a Chasselas from Epesses, for our Tasters Explorer stage. Do you think it's a good choice?

Yes, it's a good idea. Epesses is a well-known Chasselas terroir. It's a wine I like. It's a bit of a chameleon, it's an aperitif wine, but it also works great with cheese or with fish, so ideal for testing. It's perhaps more of a summer wine, with its freshness brought by the touch of Sylvaner and its slightly sparkling side.

Are there any surprises you have in store for us for the coming vintages or something you'd like to try?

Yes, there's a surprise coming, with the creation of a new wine, with new grape varieties. The vines have just been planted, so it will take a bit more time. It's my first baby, I can't wait to release it.

Maude's wines from Domaine Croix-Duplex can be found in the chapter dedicated to the canton of Vaud in our wine discovery adventure Tasters Explorer. Subscribe now and cultivate your passion for wine to become a true expert.